An irresistible French accent sets the tone for our conversation, and heaps of natural beauty and charisma make Claire Marie one of the most attractive persons in the room. From Paris to Hermès London and Sotheby’s Dubai, her career has gone from strength to strength, spanning two decades in luxury leather goods. Dubai Sotheby’s International Realty caught up with Claire to talk all things bags, as she naturally is the undisputed expert in the luxury handbags and accessories market. We have asked Claire Marie what these remarkable pieces represent to her on a personal level, the success of certain models – a phenomenon that involves several criteria – and how luxury resale has become a household trend.
Read on to find out how a good handbag is always a great conversation starter and watch how Claire Marie elegantly turns the spotlight on some of the finest collectible handbags that graced her hands at Sotheby’s and beyond.
From Hermès to Sotheby’s: For the Love of Handbags
Having spent 12 years of her professional life in Paris and 12 years in Hermès, London, Claire has had the privilege of meeting clients from all corners of the world – including the Middle East – which led to forming lasting connections, especially with auction house professionals who frequently sought her opinion on the authenticity of certain pieces. It was her passion for the industry that led her to Sotheby’s, a transition that felt entirely natural, an opportunity to explore new territories in a field that perfectly matched both her experience and personal interests. Claire works in authentication and valuation, presenting for auction designer handbags and accessories from names such as Hermès, Chanel, and Louis Vuitton, and helping clients build or refine their collections. The auction house is one of the few places where one can reliably buy an authentic luxury bag in impeccable condition and fair price. It is an equally compelling investment choice, with pieces such as Kelly and Birkin celebrated as assets with enduring value.
Over the past decade, Sotheby’s has seen its handbag business grow substantially in the Middle East, driven by growing demand for pieces like the Hermès Birkin and Chanel flap bag. Social media has also played a role in this shift, with younger generations becoming more interested in and knowledgeable about the accessories market, especially when it comes to collecting.
Middle Eastern Trends
It has been most interesting to observe the growing trends in the Middle Eastern luxury market, said Claire: “Middle Eastern clients are some of the most knowledgeable handbag collectors I’ve encountered. They travel the world to acquire the best pieces, often from Europe and the U.S., and they’re not shy to spend to get what they want. In the Middle East, however, the market veers towards newer items, with a focus on exclusive pieces rather than vintage ones, unlike in Europe where vintage and second-hand items are widely revered. While Europeans tend to embrace vintage for history and character, Middle Eastern clients are more drawn to the latest releases.”
The auction house understands the need to educate and keep clients interested in the Middle Eastern market. They are betting heavily on limited editions while also educating consumers on the importance of acquiring not just a rare, vintage bag but also unique designs that are no longer available in stores. Claire believes the luxury handbag market in the region will see a significant shift towards sustainability and the appreciation of second-hand products, and she fully intends to bring that enthusiasm to her Middle East client base. Claire educates clients on brands that hold their value and plans to mirror the same success Sotheby’s holds in other regions – like Europe and America – across the Middle Eastern market.
“I believe that educating clients on the value of second-hand and pre-owned items could help shift the mindset. Buying vintage can be a great opportunity to access unique colours, sizes, and designs that are no longer available.”
What Brands Sit at The Very Top?
We asked Claire what defines a truly collectable handbag, and if we were to link the luxury handbag market to a pyramid, which brand would sit at the top? Plainly obvious, the holding value of a Hermès is unchanging. The Birkin bag has real visibility and real impact – Hermès’ success remains a phenomenon. Close behind, another two leaders are catching up, in terms of both price and quality – Chanel and Louis Vuitton. Current trends also point to a high preference for neutral colours and specific styles like the mini Kelly.
For Claire, a collectable handbag is more than a luxury item. With the right combination of rarity, provenance, craftsmanship, and materials, a handbag becomes an ‘object d’art’. Such bags carry a certain identity and have a storied past where the character is already embedded in the piece.
"Many factors combined make a handbag a collectable work of art. Provenance, limited editions, singularity, and exotic materials such as crocodile or lizard skin all play a role in defining a piece that is considered collectable. The next upgrade beyond that would be diamonds and crystals. Craftsmanship and durability are equally important because these bags are heritage pieces that can be passed down through generations. French craftsmanship, in particular, has a strong appeal due to its long history and the prestigious designers associated with it.”
Sourcing and Valuation
Claire describes the process of sourcing as a combination of modern tools and personal relationships. Sotheby’s online platform allows clients to submit detailed requests for valuations, including item descriptions, photos, and proof of purchase. Claire then proceeds to assess the condition, age, and rarity of each piece to determine its value. Transparency in this process builds trust with clients, and Sotheby’s ensures every piece is validated and properly appraised via certification. Claire understands the nuances of clients’ collections and is able to guide them toward more exotic and valuable pieces as their tastes evolve. “It’s not just about selling items; it’s about helping people build something meaningful and continuing the legacy of these pieces into the rightful hands of the collectors,” she says, reflecting on the intimate nature of her role.
Sotheby’s Proactive Role in the Middle East
As Sotheby’s takes the next step in its long-term commitment to the region, the company’s position in the market will only strengthen. People trust the authenticity of what the auction house sells, and with access to a global network, Sotheby’s is uniquely positioned to help clients buy and sell rare and valuable pieces. “There’s no one in the Gulf to offer what we offer on such a scale. If people wish to sell or buy, they need to go through us, not every reseller on the market can operate at such a level, working with global markets. This makes us very singular and effective at what we do.”
Some of the most frequently asked questions from clients in the region are about the auction process.
“Many clients don’t fully grasp how the auction process works, especially when it comes to terms like ‘low estimate,’ ‘high estimate,’ ‘reserve price’ and the actual sale price. In the Middle East, there's a tendency to expect high prices upfront at bidding, but we start with a low estimate to attract bids from around the world and then aim for the highest return possible. Clients also ask about consigning pieces versus selling them outright, which is another key differentiator between our approach and resale stores."
Looking ahead, Claire is excited knowing the future of the luxury market in the Middle East is as highly active as it is ever-growing. “We’ve seen such growing interest, especially with the auction we’re organising in Saudi Arabia in February 2025. This is a dynamic time for culture in The Kingdom where Sotheby’s has been active for quite some time. It is an important milestone for us committing to a physical presence in Riyadh and hosting our inaugural auction Origins to mark the occasion. I’m super excited to see how it unfolds”
