Beautiful watches are coming to the market every week, in incredible numbers. Ultimately, what makes the difference between just another pretty watch and a timeless horological piece is precisely brand identity, brand heritage, and product character. A strong identity that stands out is also visible and recognisable for the collectors. For the past two centuries, Sotheby’s took on a pioneering role of bringing together the finest from the world of collectible watches, all under one roof, treating each and every single piece with the same attention to detail and the same passion for the product as those who are prepared to enter a bidding war to secure that bespoke watch to add to their collection.
Many will agree that Sotheby’s brings to auction an infinite amount of timepieces. From dive watches to drive watches and everything in between, the artisans of beauty curate pieces that command attention and make you pause for a few moments to just take in their sheer brilliance, if only from a distance. The team has been able to assemble an incredible catalogue of watches for this festive auction season, many of which are unquestionably influential and well deserving of coverage in the article below.
Watches Deserving Legendary Status
This December, Sotheby’s Fine Watches Auction in New York will span several generations of horology craftsmanship, bringing to the hammer highly attractive collectible watches from renowned makers such as Patek Philippe, Rolex, Audemars Piguet, Asprey, Vacheron Constantin, Cartier, and Chopard, to name a few. It further includes both vintage and modern pieces from independent brands like F.P. Journe representing some of the most important watches ever before offered to the market. The watches featured in the auction signal the scale of the sale, with rare and unconventional references both from established and independent brands, which will attract motivated bidders, keen to add originality to their collection. The auction will feature exceptional complications from Patek Philippe like a 3970 and 1463, as well as over 100 Rolex watches and a healthy selection of no-reserve timepieces. The exhibition will showcase the same collection from the 5th of December to the 10th of December at the auction house on York Avenue, New York.
The event brings to light Sotheby’s deep passion for watches that possess something beyond just surface-level attraction and that come with an immense offering of original documents and provenance. More than beautiful objects that tell the time, these watches tell a story well beyond themselves.
The Lots on Offer
There is never a dull moment at any auction when there is a rare Patek Philippe in the room, so everyone anticipates exciting results when the auction and exhibition take centre stage this month. From 17 lots reserved for vintage Rolex to 15 lots with high complications or the beautiful collection of bracelet watches, it is hard to single out just a few but it is very easy to feel the excitement building up as you come across something that truly is one of a kind.
Patek Philippe Ref 3970
Patek Philippe Ref 3970 E ‘Third Series’ is a yellow gold perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moon phases, leap year, and 24-hour indication, estimated to fetch around $120,000.
This is a true collector’s piece, considered one of the greatest designs from Patek Philippe, a complicated piece with all of the aesthetics in place: from size to movement, and the E that stands for étanche – French for waterproof – this one has a practical edge to its beauty.
Crafted in white, yellow, and rose gold, as well as platinum, the 3970 remains quintessentially Patek and features a traditional dial layout with three subsidiary dials: a leap year indicator and 30-minute chronograph totalizer (at three o’clock), a moonphase and date (at six o’clock), and a 12-hour chronograph totalizer paired with running seconds (at nine o’clock). The 3970 reflects a transitional time for the brand, merging the artistry of post-vintage classics like the 1518 and 2499 with the precision of modern watchmaking. This piece has an 18k yellow gold case with a silvered dial and it comes complete with presentation box, Certificate of Origin, and operating instructions.
Paul Newman Panda Daytona Rolex
This superb Rolex is a stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with a tropical minute outer track and bracelet, dated 1969. Expected to command around $400,000, the ‘Paul Newman’ has become one of the most loved wristwatches among Rolex collectors today. The 6263 reference typically comes with either a white or black dial. This piece is singular as it features a white dial with black subdials, nicknamed ‘Panda’ for its striking colour contrast. Over time, the ‘Paul Newman Daytona underwent subtle changes. This particular example, consigned by its original owner, showcases the sought-after Mk 1.5 dial and retains its original pushers and bezel insert, adding to its value.
One of Horology’s Most Important Watches
F.P. Journe takes pride of place in the auction with a Chronomètre à Résonance – a platinum dual time wristwatch with power reserve indication and brass movement. Expected to fetch around $300,000, the Chronomètre à Résonance marked a groundbreaking moment in watchmaking when Journe introduced it in 2000. It was the first resonance wristwatch and the first resonance timepiece of any kind since Breguet. In horology, mechanical resonance happens when two oscillators with identical natural frequencies are synchronising, or "beating" together. When mechanically coupled, one oscillator’s force influences the other, – a phenomenon that was first observed in pendulum clocks.
Reference 431 Big Pilot
The IWC is an extremely rare stainless steel oversized pilot’s wristwatch, dated 1940, and estimated to sell for $20,000. This piece was made for the German Air Force, capturing the profound connection between time and travel. The evolution of aviation timepieces owes much to the impact of the two world wars. In terms of prominence, very few pilot watches command such wrist presence and rich literature as Ref 431. This IWC is offered with Certificate of Authenticity confirming Date of Delivery November 20th, 1940, and Service papers dated December 2013.
Final Note
If you place a winning bid at the upcoming auction, you will most likely be purchasing a substantial piece of horological history. This auction is yet another example of how Sotheby’s plays an important part in collecting and cultivating a true community around the passion for these rare pieces, where each watch proved itself to withstand the test of time – both aesthetically as well as mechanically.
